Frequently asked questions about Egg yolk tempera

Why should I choose egg yolk tempera?

Because with its matte velvet luster, it is so beautiful! When you break with natural pigments, the small pigment particles cause the light to reflect in a varied way. The painted color changes with the different light shifts of the day. This phenomenon makes many refer to it as "living color." You can also choose to paint with egg yolk tempera for environmental and health reasons. It is a pure paint with well-declared content and renewable raw materials. Moreover, it is easy to paint with and versatile in its application. Finally, it is also a piece of cultural history to use a paint that has been used since ancient times :)

What consistency should the paint have and how do you calculate the amount?

Egg yolk tempera behaves very differently depending on which pigments it contains; some colors are always thin, and some thicken immediately. You always get a better result if you apply a thin paint. Therefore, it can be good to dilute with water until it is like thin porridge if the paint is thick when you receive it. If it has been sitting for a long time and has become extremely thick, you need to dilute it with more emulsion (egg, linseed oil, water) so that the paint does not have too high a water content.

The estimated amount of paint needed for different surfaces varies. But we usually say that 1 liter of paint generally covers about 10 square meters if you roll it out. About 12 square meters when brushing. On very absorbent surfaces like lump paper/plaster about 4-6 square meters/liter. On painted surfaces or planed wood surfaces about 12-15 square meters/liter. This is the estimated amount for one coat, and you should keep in mind that it often requires 2-3 coats for an even, finished result.

I want a pure white egg yolk tempera, which one should I choose?

All paint with linseed oil, such as egg yolk tempera and also linseed oil paint, cannot achieve the same bright white as plastic paint, glue, and lime paint can. Using only white pigments in the tempera makes it eggshell white/cream white. To enhance the white impression in the paint, we break it with very little, for example, gray, black, or blue pigments. This makes it appear whiter and, in my opinion, gives it a more beautiful and softer appearance than a pure white. Our whitest is called Warm White 0-002, which is frequently used for walls and ceilings, while gray/white 9-611 is popular as wall paint.

Does the paint improve with organic eggs?

We know that it is sometimes claimed. But to my knowledge, there are no scientific studies that show this to be the case. However, I think it is good for the environment and not least for the hens' sake to choose organic when possible!

Why do you use egg powder and not real eggs in your paint?

It would be very difficult for us to handle. For 1 liter of tempera, about 5-6 eggs are needed, and we produce several hundred liters a week. We would have to hire an "egg cracker" to manage that! Therefore, we use high-quality organic egg powder, the same as bakeries use. The egg powder consists of the whole egg, both the white and the yolk, which has been dried to utilize Sweden's egg surplus.

Is it possible to paint egg oil tempera over another color?

Yes, of course it works! It adheres best to clean wood, as it soaks into the substrate and beautifully shows the wood structure. But you can paint over all types of paint (that are properly adhered), such as linseed oil paint, modern water-based or oil-based paints. Wash and slightly roughen the painted surface with sandpaper, then you can just paint on.

Which surfaces cannot be painted with egg oil tempera?

There are certain surfaces that are not good to paint on, such as surfaces painted with glue paint (the glue paint needs to be washed off first). The same applies to surfaces painted with slurry paint. Tar-coated surfaces also do not work well; where tar has been used once, you must continue with that product. Otherwise, I have used it on top of all types of paint, even on metal, iron, glass, plastic, and fabric with success. What happens when the paint cannot penetrate the substrate is that the curing takes longer. But eventually, the paint adheres and withstands wear.

Which is better to paint with, a roller or a brush?

It is entirely a matter of taste. It can be both rolled, brushed, or spray-painted. Personally, I think one should always brush on wooden surfaces. I prefer to use a wide brush or a wall brush for walls and a smaller varnish brush for furniture. Others prefer to roll wall surfaces. You should use the method you feel most comfortable with. It should be fun and enjoyable to paint; that usually leads to good results!

If I change my mind and want to paint over the egg yolk tempera, is that possible?

There is a myth circulating that it would be impossible. But that is not the case. As long as the egg yolk tempera has cured properly, you can paint over it with any type of paint, oil-based or water-based. Just wash and roughen the surface a bit before painting.

Is there a risk that the paint will start to mold indoors on the wall?

No, it is not! It should be extremely humid, and then all types of paint will mold. We have long experience of use in unheated summer cottages, etc., and it works perfectly. However, the paint in the can molds after a few months, and if you make it yourself, it will do so after a couple of weeks, but not in painted condition.

What should I use when rolling tempera and how should the brush be??

A common synthetic roller with 24 mm nap is the easiest way to achieve a good result, as it picks up a lot of paint and allows for generous application. Lambswool roller also works well, and it is suitable if you want to "effect paint", wet on wet with two colors at the same time. A brush can be used with almost anything; the tempera is not picky there, but it is best with a soft varnish brush, a ceiling brush in natural or mixed bristles. Preferably not too thin bristle thickness, you need to pick up a lot of paint in the brush. I would like the thickness to be at least 10mm or more in the bristles.

I find it difficult to paint on lumppapp, what am I doing wrong?

Lumppapp is a very absorbent substrate. All strongly absorbent substrates can be difficult to manage when the paint soaks in and dries quickly. If you then go back with the brush where it has dried, it becomes uneven and blotchy. A good tip is to prime the gray lumppapp first, generously with regular wallpaper paste or cellulose paste a couple of times. This makes the substrate significantly less absorbent and easier to paint. (We have seen this method mentioned negatively in discussions regarding tips on egg yolk tempera painting. It is not something we support!) We have very good experiences from 15 years back of priming specifically with cellulose paste on lumppapp and feel very confident about it. If you do not want to use cellulose paste, it is of course also possible to prime with an extra layer of egg yolk tempera or a linseed oil paint primer.

Do you have any primer?

No, we have had it before but don't really see the value in it anymore. When it comes to painting on wood, it works perfectly to paint directly with the color you desire. For the first coat, you can advantageously dilute it even more than as a thin porridge, especially if it is a porous substrate. Then it usually only takes one or two coats after that. When painting on, for example, lump paper, you can advantageously apply cellulose paste as a primer. It should not be glue water but the paste as thick as it is. It will absorb. Then, of course, it is also possible to prime with modern primer or linseed oil paint primer if desired or if you have leftovers from, for example, linseed oil paint or something else.

When painting on plaster or clay lining, it works best to thoroughly wet the surface with water first and then paint on a wet surface instead of priming.

Can I paint with egg oil tempera in the sauna?

Yes, that works perfectly. We have had several customers over the years who have used tempera with good results in the sauna.

Can you use egg oil tempera for stencil painting?

Yes, in my opinion, there is no other paint that is as suitable for stencil painting. It is significantly easier to color than, for example, glue paint. It can be diluted with water, which makes it easy to rinse the stencil sheet regularly (which is more troublesome with, for example, linseed oil paint). Since the paint dries on the surface very quickly, it is soon possible to apply the next sheet for printing if it is a multi-colored stencil. Additionally, it gives a beautifully matte but wipeable surface.

Can I paint transparently with egg oil tempera?

That works excellently! Some colors are very transparent, and then it is enough to apply once to achieve a glazed surface. While the more opaque colors are diluted with extra emulsion. For our finished tempera, you can order a color and then specify that you want it as a glaze. Then we ensure that it has the appropriate consistency.

Do I need to use knotting lacquer under egg oil tempera?

Yes, if you don't want the knots to bleed through, you must use knotting lacquer; otherwise, they will eventually. It is mainly under covering light colors that the knots' bleed-through is noticeable; dark colors are generally more forgiving. When painting with a glazing technique, one usually doesn't bother with knotting lacquer because they don't show up as prominently. It also varies a bit depending on the type of wood you are painting on; pine gives quicker and uglier stains than, for example, spruce. However, I wouldn't bother with shellac on floors; the wear is so much harder that the paint needs to penetrate properly everywhere for optimal adhesion.

Which knotting lacquer is the best?

There are many knotting lacquers on the market. Unfortunately, they are often expensive and very diluted, so they do a poor job. The genuine shellac flake that you dilute with denatured alcohol and mix yourself is the cheapest and by far the best! (About 1hg flake/2.5dl denatured alcohol.)

Where do you get your linseed oil from?

We source it from the area, specifically "Berga Gård" in Fjugesta. There, Närkes linseed oil is pressed by the company "Närke lin". They maintain a very consistent and high quality of their linseed oil!

Can you paint with egg yolk tempera outdoors?

We do not recommend egg yolk tempera outdoors but see it as an indoor paint. Of course, you can paint, for example, garden furniture that is carried in and out, planting beds, trellises, etc. It is also important to choose pigments that are more resistant to mold. If you still want to try. But for house facades, we advise against painting with tempera; there are better alternatives like clay paint or linseed oil paint, for example.

I've heard about mixing tar into egg yolk tempera... why?

I know that some recommend that mixture to make egg yolk tempera more resistant outdoors, and I believe that is completely correct. It was only a couple of years ago that tar was about to be classified as a pesticide (luckily it didn't happen), but it is definitely aggressive against mold. What one should keep in mind is that you have actually created a new emulsion paint. It can no longer be referred to as egg yolk tempera. One should also remember that where you apply tar, it will be difficult to paint over with something else in the future. You have to stick to the concept, so to speak.

Does egg yolk tempera smell?

It smells wonderful! A faint scent of linseed oil (many customers comment on that).

 

I painted 4 days ago and the paint won't stick?

No worries, it will dry. Some colors stop rubbing off within a day, others take a bit longer.

What can I do to speed up the drying process?

Light, heat, and ventilation speed up the drying. A dehumidifier or a small fan can do wonders if it's a damp winter day.

If I mix pigments and make a color myself, are there then "impossible" mixtures that never dry?

I started using and mixing my own tempera in my early teens and now I'm a bit over 50... There have been many varying mixtures and all have dried. But it can really take different amounts of time. Some pigments speed up the drying process like the umbers, while others can be a bit more difficult to dry. But they all dry eventually, provided you have a good quality linseed oil. Try and experiment, it's fun!

I've heard that you can polish the tempera, but what's the point and how do you do it?

Walls, ceilings, and, for example, walls are rarely polished, but for example, furniture or moldings can be polished to get rid of the 'pulling' feeling and make the surface stronger. It varies how well the pigments are polished. Some polish easily and give a beautiful satin sheen, while others can almost become shiny from polishing (e.g., black, gold ochre, etc.). Some retain their matte surface despite polishing but still become more resistant to, for example, stains. Use a scrubbing brush, bath brush, troll wool, nylon stocking, rough old terry towel, or something else that rubs up the paint. Wait 3-4 weeks after painting.

Can I splatter paint with egg oil tempera?

Yes, of course! It works great.

How should I store the egg oil tempera?

A few degrees cooler than room temperature extends the 'lifespan' but it must not freeze.

Can I lacquer over egg oil tempera?

You can, but we think that's a shame! If you don't think polishing is enough and want to completely close the pores, then 'osmo' hard wax oil is a much better and more beautiful alternative. It can be suitable for, for example, light-painted kitchen doors or dining tables. The advantage of this wax is that it can be painted over again after light sanding. Other waxes, such as beeswax, must be removed before any repainting.

I am allergic to eggs, can I use your paint?

It is not suitable to paint with it if you are allergic to eggs. However, there are usually no problems after the paint has dried for about 1-2 weeks. As I understand it, egg protein does not emit in gas form. Over the years, we have been in contact with several egg allergy sufferers who live well with the paint in their homes.

Can the pigments be toxic?

There have been quite a few toxic pigments that were previously used, such as lead white, cinnabar red, chrome yellow, etc. Fortunately, they have been removed! However, there are cinnabar tones, chrome green tones, etc. These are harmless substitutes that are supposed to give the same tone as the originals. We have also removed the pigment zinc oxide from the paint; it is not health hazardous, but environmentally burdensome.

How do I remove dirt from the egg oil tempera, the chair arms look dirty?

Only the paint has properly cured. You can scrub the chair arms with warm water and soap. If you get a stain on the wall, rub a little more gently where you rub hard, otherwise shiny spots may appear (it gets polished). If it's, for example, pencil marks, try gently with an eraser.

 

I forgot to shellac the knots before painting with the tempera, so now they shine through so ugly, is there anything I can do?

Yes, it can look really boring... You can shellac over the paint, but that means painting at least two more times again. Sometimes it can be worth it if it's a light color with ugly yellow-brown spots from knots.