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Because it is so beautiful with its matte velvet luster. When mining with natural pigments, the small pigment grains cause the light to be reflected in a varied way. The painted color changes according to the different light changes of the day. This phenomenon causes many to refer to it as "living colour". Then many choose the color for environmental, health reasons and simplicity. It is a clean color with a well-declared content. It is easy to work with and extremely versatile in its area of use. Finally, it is also a piece of cultural history to use such a color that was already used in the days of antiquity.
Egg oil tempera behaves differently depending on the pigment it contains, some colors are always thin and some thicken immediately. But you always get a better result with a thin color. Therefore, if the paint is thick when you receive it, it may be good to thin it with water until it is like a thin gruel. If you have had it standing for a long time so that it has become really colossally thick, you must dilute it with more emulsion (egg, linseed oil, water) so that the color does not get too much water.
The calculated amount of paint used for different substrates is different. But we usually say that 1 liter of paint is generally enough for about 10 square meters. On a really absorbent surface such as rag paper/plaster approx. 4-6 m2/litre. On painted surfaces or planed wooden surfaces approx. 12-15 square meters/litre. It is the calculated amount for one ironing, then you have to consider that it often takes 2-3 ironings for an even, finished result.
We know that it is sometimes claimed but to my knowledge there are no scientific studies showing that this would be the case. However, I think it is good for the environment and not least for the hens' sake to choose organic when it is possible!
It would be very difficult for us to handle. 1 liter of tempera requires about 5-6 eggs and we produce several hundred liters a week. We would have to hire an "egg cracker" to handle it! That's why we use organic egg powder of high quality, the same that bakeries use. Egg powder is the whole egg, both the white and the yolk, which has been dried down to make use of Sweden's egg surplus.
There are certain substrates that are not so good to paint on, for example. adhesive paint's painted surfaces, (then the adhesive paint needs to be washed off first). The same applies to mud-painted surfaces. Tar-coated surfaces do not fare well either, where once you have used tar, you must continue with that product. Otherwise, I've used it on top of all kinds of paint, even metal, iron, glass, plastic and fabric with success. What happens when the paint cannot creep into the substrate is that curing takes longer. But in the end, the color stays put and withstands wear and tear.
It is entirely up to taste. It can be both rolled, brushed or spray painted. Personally, I think you should always brush wooden surfaces. I like to use a wide brush or wallpaper brush for walls and a smaller lacquer brush for furniture. Others prefer wall surfaces. You should use the method you are most comfortable with. It should be fun and full of pleasure to paint, then it usually turns out well!
There is a myth that it would be impossible. But that is not the case. As long as the egg oil tempera is allowed to harden properly, you can paint over it with any type of paint, oil-based or water-based. Wash and rough up the surface a bit just before painting.
No, it is not! Then it must be extremely humid and then all types of color will mold. We have long experience of use in unheated summer cottages, etc. and it works perfectly. On the other hand, the paint in a can goes moldy after a few months and you do it yourself after a couple of weeks, but not in painted condition.
A normal synthetic roller with 22 mm fluff is the easiest to get a good result with, then you get a lot of color and can apply fluidly. Lamb's wool rollers also work well, it is also suitable if you want to "effect paint", wet on wet with two colors at the same time. Brush goes with almost anything, the tempera is not picky there, but best of all with a soft lacquer brush, plafond brush in nature or mixed brush. Preferably not too thin brush thickness, you need to get some color in the brush. I would like the thickness to be at least 10mm or more in the brush.
Cardboard is a very absorbent substrate. All highly absorbent surfaces can be difficult to iron in time when the paint soaks in and the surface dries quickly. If you then go back with the brush where the surface has dried, it becomes uneven and patchy. A good tip is to prime the gray lump paper first, liberally with regular wallpaper paste or cellulose paste a couple of times. Then the substrate becomes significantly less absorbent and easier to iron. (We have seen this procedure appear in negative terms in threads relating to tips on egg oil tempera painting. It is not something we stand behind!) We have had very good experience since 15 years ago of priming with cellulose paste on rag paper and feel very safe with the. If you do not want to use cellulose paste, it is of course also possible to prime with an extra layer of egg oil tempera or a linseed oil paint primer.
No, we've had it before but don't really see the value in it anymore. When it comes to painting wood, it works perfectly well to paint directly with the color you want. For the first coat, you can advantageously dilute it a little more than as thin gruel, especially if it is an absorbent substrate. Then one or two strokes after that is usually enough. If you are painting on, for example, rag paper, you can advantageously apply cellulose paste as a base. There should be no glue water but the glue as thick as it is. It will soak in. Then, of course, it also works to prime with a modern primer or linseed oil primer if you so wish or if you have leftovers from e.g. linseed oil paint or other.
When painting on plaster or clay lining, it works best to thoroughly wet the surface with water first and then paint on the wet surface instead of priming.
Yes, it's going perfectly. We have had several customers over the years who have used tempera with good results in the sauna.
Yes, in my opinion there is no other color that lends itself so well to stencil painting. It is much easier to color than e.g. distemper. It can be diluted with water, which makes it easy to rinse off the stencil sheet at regular intervals (which is more difficult with e.g. linseed oil paint). In addition, it provides a beautiful completely matte but wipeable surface.
It's going great! Some colors are very lasing and then it is enough to iron once and you have a lasered surface. While the more covering colors are diluted with extra emulsion. For our finished tempera, you can order a color and then state that you want it as a glaze. Then we make sure it has the appropriate consistency.
Yes, if you don't want the twigs to bleed through, you have to varnish the twigs, otherwise they will come sooner or later. It is mainly under covering light colors that you are disturbed by the impact of the twigs, dark colors are more forgiving in general. When you paint with a laser, you usually don't bother to varnish the twigs because then they are not visible in the same marked way. It's a little different what you paint on for the type of wood as well, pine produces faster and uglier stains than, for example, spruce. Floors, however, I wouldn't bother to shellac, there the wear is so much harder that the paint needs to penetrate properly everywhere for an optimal attachment.
There are many twig varnishes on the market. Unfortunately, they are often expensive and very diluted so they are of little use. The real shellac flake that you dilute with rubbing alcohol and mix yourself is the cheapest and by far the best! (Approximately 1 hg flake/2.5 dl red spirit.)
We collect it from the area, specifically "Berga Gård" in Fjugesta. Närke's linseed oil is pressed there by the company "Närke lin". They maintain a very consistent and high quality of their linseed oil!
We do not recommend egg oil tempera outdoors, but see it as an indoor paint. Of course you can paint, for example. garden furniture that is carried in and out, growing beds, trellises, etc. It is also important to choose pigments that are more resistant to mold. If you're going to try anyway. But we advise against painting house facades with tempera, there are better alternatives such as mud paint or linseed oil paint, for example.
I know that some people recommend that mixture to make the egg oil tempera more resistant outdoors and I think it is quite right that it will be. It was only a couple of years ago that tar was about to be classified as a pesticide (luckily it didn't happen that way), but it is clearly aggressive against mold. What you have to think about is that you have actually created a new emulsion paint. It cannot be called egg oil tempera anymore. You should also keep in mind that where tar is applied, it is difficult to paint over with something else in the future. You have to stick to the concept, so to speak.
It smells wonderful! A faint scent of linseed oil (many customers comment on it).
Don't worry, it will dry. Some colors stop chalking off within a day, others take a little longer.
Light, heat and ventilation speed up drying. A dehumidifier or a small fan can do the trick if it's a raw winter day.
I started using and mixing my own tempera in my early teens and now I'm a bit over 50... There have been many different mixtures and all of them have dried. But it can really take a long time. Some pigments speed up the drying process, such as the umbers, while others can be a little more difficult to flirt with when drying. But all dry eventually provided you have a good quality linseed oil. Try and experiment, it's fun!
Walls, ceilings and, for example, masonry are rarely polished, but e.g. furniture or moldings can be polished up to get rid of the "mushy" feeling and make the surface stronger. It is different how well the pigments are polished up. Some are easily polished up and give a beautiful silky luster, while some can become almost shiny from polishing (e.g. black, gold ocher, etc.). Some retain their matte surface despite the polishing, but still become more resistant to e.g. stains. Use a scrub brush, bath brush, troll wool, nylon stocking, torn old terry towel or something else that rubs up the paint. Wait 3-4 weeks after painting.
Of course! it's going great.
A few degrees cooler than room temperature extends the "life" but it must not freeze.
You can, but we think it's a shame! If you don't think polishing is enough and you want to close the pores completely, then "osmo" hard wax oil is a much better and more beautiful alternative. Can fit e.g. brightly painted kitchen doors or dining tables. The advantage of this wax is that it can be painted over again after light roughing. Other waxes such as beeswax must be removed before repainting.
It is not suitable to paint with it if you are allergic to eggs. However, there are usually no problems after the paint dries after about 1-2 weeks. From what I understand, egg protein does not emit gas. Over the years, we have been in contact with several egg allergy sufferers who live well with the color in their homes.
There have been quite a few toxic pigments that were used in the past, eg lead white, cinnabar red, chrome yellow, etc. They are thankfully removed! However, there are cinnabar tones, chrome green tones, etc. They are harmless replacements that should give the same tone as the genuine ones. We have also removed the pigment zinc oxide from the paint, it is not dangerous to health, but harmful to the environment.
Only the paint has hardened properly. So you can scrub the chair frames with warm water and soap. If you get a stain on the wall, rub a little more carefully where you rub hard, otherwise shinier spots will appear (it will be polished). Is it e.g. pencil strokes, try gently with an eraser.
Yes, it can look really boring... You can shellac on top of the paint, but then you have to paint at least two more times. Sometimes it can be worth it if it is a light color with ugly yellow-brown reflections of twigs.