Frequently asked questions about Egg yolk tempera

Why should I choose egg oil tempera?

Because with its matte velvet sheen it is so beautiful! When tinted with natural pigments, the small pigment particles cause the light to be reflected in a varied way. The painted color changes according to the different light shifts of the day. This phenomenon makes many refer to it as "living paint." You can also choose to paint with egg oil tempera for environmental and health reasons. It is a pure paint with well-declared content and renewable raw materials. Additionally, it is easy to paint with and versatile in its use. Finally, it is also a piece of cultural history to use a paint that was already used during ancient times :)

What consistency should the paint have and how do you calculate the amount?

Egg oil tempera behaves very differently depending on which pigments it contains; some colors are always thin and some thicken immediately. You always get a better result if you apply a thin paint. Therefore, it can be good to dilute with water until it is like thin porridge if the paint is thick when you get it. If you have had it standing for a long time so it has become extremely thick, you must dilute with more emulsion (egg, linseed oil, water) so that the paint does not get too high a water content.

The estimated amount of paint needed for different substrates varies. But we usually say that 1 liter of paint generally covers about 10 sqm if you roll out the paint. About 12 sqm with brush application. On really absorbent substrates like rag paper/plaster about 4-6 sqm/liter. On painted surfaces or planed wood surfaces about 12-15 sqm/liter. This is the estimated amount for one coat, then you have to consider that it often requires 2-3 coats for an even, finished result.

I want a chalk white egg oil tempera, which one should I choose then?

All paint with linseed oil in it, such as egg oil tempera and also linseed oil paint cannot be made as truly chalk white as plastic paint, glue, and lime paint can be. Using only white pigments in the tempera makes it eggshell white/cream white. To enhance the white impression in the paint, we tint it with very little, for example, gray, black, or blue pigments. Then it appears whiter and, in my opinion, has a more beautiful and softer expression than a chalk white. Our whitest is called Warm White 0-002, it is frequently used for walls and ceilings, while gray/white 9-611 is popular as wall paint.

Why do you use egg powder and not real eggs in your paint?

That would be very difficult for us to handle. For 1 liter of tempera, about 5-6 eggs are needed and we produce several hundred liters a week. We would have to hire an "egg cracker" to manage that! Therefore, we use high-quality egg powder, the same as bakeries use. The egg powder consists of the whole egg, both the white and the yolk, dried to preserve Sweden's egg surplus.

Is it possible to paint egg oil tempera over other paint?

Yes, of course it can! Naturally, it adheres best on clean wood, as it soaks into the substrate and beautifully shows the wood grain. But you can paint over all types of paint (that are properly adhered) such as linseed oil paint, modern water-based or oil-based paints. Wash and lightly sand the painted surface with sandpaper, then just paint on.

Which substrates cannot be painted with egg oil tempera?

There are certain substrates that are not good to paint on, e.g. glue paint painted surfaces (then the glue paint needs to be washed off first). The same applies to slurry paint painted surfaces. Tar-coated surfaces also do not work well; where tar has once been used, you must continue with that product. Otherwise, I have used it on top of all types of paint, even on metal, iron, glass, plastic, and fabric with success. What happens when the paint cannot penetrate the substrate is that the curing takes longer. But eventually, the paint adheres and withstands wear.

Which is better to paint with, roller or brush?

It is entirely a matter of taste and preference. It can be both rolled, brushed or spray painted. Personally, I think you should always brush on wood surfaces. I like to use a wide brush or a wallpaper brush for walls and a smaller varnish brush for furniture. Others prefer to roll wall surfaces. You should use the method you feel most comfortable with. Painting should be fun and enjoyable, then it usually turns out well!

If I change my mind and want to paint over the egg oil tempera, is that possible?

There is a myth circulating that it would be impossible. But that is not the case. As long as the egg oil tempera is allowed to cure properly, you can paint over it with any type of paint, oil-based or water-based. Just wash and lightly roughen the surface before painting.

Is there a risk that the paint will start to mold indoors on the wall?

No, it is not! Then it has to be extremely humid and then all types of paint mold. We have long experience of use in unheated summer cottages etc. and it works perfectly. However, the paint molds in the can after a few months and if you make it yourself after a couple of weeks but not in painted condition.

What should I use when rolling tempera and what should the brush be like??

A common synthetic roller with 24 mm nap is easiest to get a good result with, as it holds a lot of paint and you can apply it generously. Lambswool rollers also work well; they are especially suitable if you want to "effect paint," wet on wet with two colors at the same time. Almost any brush works, the tempera is not picky there but best with a soft varnish brush, ceiling brush in natural or mixed bristles. Preferably not too thin bristle thickness; you need to get a lot of paint on the brush. I like the thickness to be at least 10mm or more in the bristles.

I find it difficult to paint on lumppapp, what am I doing wrong?

Lumppapp is a very absorbent substrate. All highly absorbent substrates can be difficult to keep up with when painting as the paint soaks in and surface-dries quickly. If you then go back with the brush where it has surface-dried, it becomes uneven and blotchy. A good tip is to prime the gray lumppapp first, generously with ordinary wallpaper paste or cellulose paste a couple of times. This makes the substrate significantly less absorbent and easier to paint. ( We have seen this method mentioned negatively in streams related to tips on egg oil tempera painting. This is not something we endorse!) We have had very good experiences for 15 years with priming specifically with cellulose paste on lumppapp and feel very confident about it. If you do not want to use cellulose paste, it is of course also possible to prime with an extra layer of egg oil tempera or a linseed oil paint primer.

Do you have any primer?

No, we have had it before but no longer really see the value in it. When it comes to painting on wood, it works perfectly to paint directly with the color you want. For the first coat, you can advantageously dilute even more than thin porridge, especially if it is an absorbent substrate. Then one or two coats usually suffice after that. When painting on, for example, rag paper, you can advantageously apply cellulose paste as a primer. It should not be any glue water but the paste as thick as it is. It will absorb. Then it also naturally works to prime with modern primer or linseed oil paint primer if you wish or if you have leftovers of, for example, linseed oil paint or other.

When painting on plaster or clay daubing, it works best to wet the surface thoroughly with water first and then paint on the wet surface instead of priming.

Can I paint with egg oil tempera in the sauna?

Yes, it works perfectly. We have had several customers over the years who have used tempera with good results in the sauna.

Can you use egg oil tempera for stencil painting?

Yes, in my opinion, there is no other paint as suitable for stencil painting. It is considerably easier to color than, for example, glue paint. It is water-thinnable, which makes it easy to rinse the stencil sheet at regular intervals (which is more troublesome with, for example, linseed oil paint). Since the paint surface dries very quickly, it is possible to apply the next sheet for printing very soon if it is a multicolored stencil. Moreover, it gives a beautifully fully matte but wipeable surface.

Can I paint translucent with egg oil tempera?

It works perfectly! Some colors are very translucent and then one coat is enough to have a translucent surface. While the more opaque colors are diluted with extra emulsion. For our ready-made tempera, you can order a color and then specify that you want it as a glaze. Then we make sure it has the appropriate consistency.

Do I have to knot-seal under egg oil tempera?

Yes, if you don't want the knots to bleed through, you have to knot-seal, otherwise they will sooner or later. It is mainly under opaque light colors that the knots' bleed-through is disturbing; dark colors are generally more forgiving. When painting translucent, you usually don't bother knot-sealing because they don't show in the same pronounced way. It also varies a bit depending on the type of wood you paint on; pine gives faster and uglier stains than, for example, spruce. However, I wouldn't bother shellacking floors, where the wear is so much harder that the paint needs to penetrate properly everywhere for optimal adhesion.

Which knotting varnish is best?

There are many knotting varnishes on the market. Unfortunately, they are often expensive and very diluted so they do little good. The genuine shellac flake that you dilute with methylated spirits and mix yourself is the cheapest and by far the best! (About 1hg flake/2.5dl methylated spirits.)

Where do you get your linseed oil from?

We source it locally, more precisely from "Berga Gård" in Fjugesta. There, Närkes linseed oil is pressed by the company "Närke lin". They maintain a very consistent and high quality in their linseed oil!

Can you paint with egg oil tempera outdoors?

We do not recommend egg oil tempera outdoors but see it as an indoor paint. Sure, you can paint e.g. garden furniture that is carried in and out, raised beds, trellises, etc. It is also important to choose pigments that are more resistant to mold if you are going to try. But we advise against painting house facades with tempera; there are better alternatives like slaked paint or linseed oil paint for example.

Have heard about mixing tar in egg oil tempera.. why?

I know some recommend that mixture to make egg oil tempera more resistant outdoors and I believe it is quite true that it becomes. It was only a couple of years ago that tar was about to be classified as a pesticide (fortunately it was not) but it is clearly aggressive against mold. What you should keep in mind is that you have actually created a new emulsion paint. It can no longer be called egg oil tempera. You should also remember that where you apply tar, it is difficult to paint over with anything else in the future. You have to stick to the concept so to speak.

Does egg oil tempera smell?

It smells wonderful! A faint scent of linseed oil (many customers comment on it).

I painted 4 days ago and the paint won't stick?

No worries, it will dry. Some colors stop chalking off within a day, others take a little longer.

What can I do to speed up the drying process?

Light, heat, and ventilation speed up the drying. A dehumidifier or a small fan can work wonders if it is a damp winter day.

If I mix pigments myself and make a paint, are there then "impossible" mixtures that never dry?

I started using and mixing my own tempera in my early teens and now I am a bit over 50... There have been many varying mixtures and all have dried. But it can really take different amounts of time. Some pigments speed up the drying process like the umbers while others can be a bit more reluctant to dry. But all dry eventually provided you have a linseed oil of good quality. Try and experiment, it's fun!

I have heard that you can polish up the tempera but what is the point and how do you do it?

Walls, ceilings, and for example walls are rarely polished but for example furniture or moldings can be polished to get rid of the "pulled" feeling and make the surface stronger. It varies how well the pigments polish up. Some polish easily and give a beautiful satin sheen while some can almost become glossy from polishing (e.g. black, gold ochre, etc.). Some retain their matte surface despite polishing but still become more resistant to, for example, stains. Use a scrubbing brush, bath brush, steel wool, nylon stocking, rough old terry towel, or something else that rubs up the paint. Wait 3-4 weeks after painting.

Can I splatter paint with egg oil tempera?

Yes, of course! That works very well.

How should I store the egg oil tempera?

A few degrees cooler than room temperature extends the "lifespan" but it must not freeze.

Can I varnish over egg oil tempera?

You can, but we think that is a pity! If you do not think polishing is enough and want to close the pores completely, "osmo" hard wax oil is a much better and more beautiful alternative. It can suit, for example, light-painted kitchen doors or dining tables. The advantage of this wax is that after light sanding, it can be painted over again. Other waxes such as beeswax must be removed before any repainting.

I am allergic to eggs, can I use your paint?

It is not suitable to paint with it if you are allergic to eggs. However, it usually is not a problem after the paint has dried for about 1-2 weeks. As far as I understand, egg protein does not emit in gas form. Over the years, we have had contact with several egg allergy sufferers who live well with the paint in their homes.

Can the pigments be toxic?

There have been quite a few toxic pigments previously used such as lead white, cinnabar red, chrome yellow, etc. Fortunately, they have been removed! However, there are cinnabar tones, chrome green tones, etc. These are harmless substitutes meant to give the same tone as the real ones. We have also removed the pigment zinc oxide from the paint; it is not harmful to health but environmentally burdensome.

How do I remove dirt on the egg oil tempera, the chair arms look grimy?

Has the paint just hardened properly. Then you can scrub the chair arms with warm water and soap. If you get a stain on the wall, rub a little more gently where you rub hard otherwise shinier spots will appear (it becomes polished). If it is, for example, pen marks, try gently with an eraser.

I forgot to shellac the knots before painting with the tempera so now they show through so ugly, is there anything I can do?

Yes, it can look really dull... You can shellac over the paint, but then you have to paint at least two more times again. Sometimes it can be worth it if it is a light color with ugly yellow-brown knots showing through.